Absinthe -- Forbidden No Longer

    Absinthe fell from society's good graces around the turn of the last century when it acquired an unsavory reputation as the drink of such bohemian neer-do-wells as Picasso, Van Gogh, Baudelaire and Oscar Wilde. The final blow came in 1915 when the governments of France, United States and others banned the production of absinthe after concerns were raised that one of its ingredients--Artemisia absinthium--possessed dangerous psychoactive properties.

    The assertions were later found to be baseless; nevertheless the ban remained in place until recently. Damn the man!

    Absinthe's reversal of fortune caused most of us hit to the books to learn what it is and how to use it. Old as I may be, I've never even seen absinthe no less worked with it behind the bar. With samples of the leading brands now half-empty (half-full?), I know just enough about absinthe to be dangerous.
    If you're in the same boat, here's the skinny on what I've learned about the "Green Fairy," as it is often referred.

• Not a Neat Treat -- Like all high-proof spirits, absinthe isn't intended to be drunk neat. Handing someone a straight shot of absinthe is a quick way to lose a friend. Although graced with amazing arrays of anise-forward aromas, the wafting alcohol vapors are off-putting.
• Not All Created Equally -- Absinthe is produced in several styles--from blanche (clear), and verte (green) to bohemian (less pronounced anise)--and with different alcohol contents (ranging from 90-proof to upwards of 138-proof). Premiere brands of include Pernod, Mata Hari, Kübler, Lucid, Grand Absente and Le Fée.
• Preserving Tradition -- The Absinthe Drip is the traditional method of service. Its preparation involves resting a specially designed, slotted spoon on the rim of a glass of absinthe. A sugar cube is placed on the spoon over which icy cold water is slowly poured. The water and sugar mixture drips through the slots in the spoon and into the absinthe waiting below. The Absinthe Drip has an intriguing appearance and a delicious, fascinating flavor.
• Classic Revivals -- Absinthe was also a featured performer in many of the earliest cocktails, classics such as the aptly named Corpse Reviver (gin, absinthe, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc and lemon juice), and Ernest Hemingway's Death in the Afternoon (absinthe and Champagne). It's also an integral ingredient in an authentic Sazerac, which earlier this year was named the official cocktail of New Orleans. The drink is made with rye whiskey, sugar, Peychaud's Bitters and served in an absinthe-rinsed glass.

    The adage about what's old being new again seems to sum things up nicely. --RP