At
first glance I might appear to be an exceedingly boring person. Upon closer
inspection, however, I'm just painfully dull. For example, I'm fascinated with
simple syrup and have spent the better part of my summer delving into various
uses and creative variations. I know, I really should get a hobby, but my
doctor says that my over-focus issues are treatable and that as long as I don't
cause harm to others, my fixations are to be expected.
With
that said, my interest in the sweetener is purely intellectual. For generations
simple syrup has been a workhorse behind the bar and crucial to the
construction of such classics as the Old Fashioned, Irish Coffee, Caipirinha
and Mojito. Its advantage when making cocktails is that unlike granulated
sugar, simple syrup will immediately go into solution.
Equally
important, simple syrup is irreplaceable when preparing fresh lime and lemon
sour mixes, and with the earth's axis now tilting toward making cocktails with
only the freshest ingredients, scratch mixes have become more the norm.
This
is simple syrup's time to shine. While bottled sugar syrups are available
commercially, it's much more satisfying making it yourself with equal parts of
boiling water and sugar. Creative options include substituting the granulated
white sugar with guarapo (fresh sugar cane juice), agave nectar, brown, raw, or
powdered sugar.
A
growing trend among mixologists and bar chefs is creating proprietary simple
syrups by infusing them with distinctive flavors. For example, PF Chang's China
Bistro promotes a sensational cocktail named the Jasmine Gimlet that derives its singular flavor in part from
the use of jasmine syrup as a sweetener.
The
Balmy Spring is a signature drink
at Sonoma's Cyrus Restaurant. Created by bar chef guru Scott Beattie, the
drink's engaging personality in part is derived using cucumber flavored simple
syrup. Another Cyrus specialty, the Rhubarbarella.
is prepared with ginger/rhubarb simple syrup, chopped shiso leaves and candied
rhubarb pieces.
The
sour mix at Tommy's Restaurant in San Francisco is sweetened with agave syrup,
which is made using equal parts of agave nectar, bottled water and simple
syrup. The mixture is heated slowly until all of the components have fully
integrated. The agave syrup is one reason why the Margaritas at the famed
tequilaria taste singularly delicious.
Simple
syrup isn't so simple anymore.
Recipes
Excerpted From
Secrets
Revealed of America's Greatest Cocktails
(BarMedia
2007)
Agave Simple Syrup
Specialty of
Tommy's Mexican Restaurant
San
Francisco, CA
1/3 part agave
nectar
1/3 part bottled
water
1/3 part simple
syrup
Combine
ingredients and bring to a slow heat as you would to make simple syrup. Once
the liquids have combined, leave to cool. Do not bring to a boil. Agave nectar
can be found in any Whole Foods or quality food store. Refrigerate in a glass
container.
Brugal/Pineapple Simple Syrup
Specialty of
Bar Masa
New York, NY
2 pineapples
peeled, cored, cut into 1-inch cubes
24 oz. sugar
2 liters Brugal
Añejo Rum
Put sugar and
pineapple into a 10-quart pot. Add the rum and simmer over low heat for 1 hour,
stirring occasionally. Do not let mixture boil. Cool and strain the syrup
through a cheesecloth or sieve.
Candied Lemongrass
Specialty of
Cyrus Restaurant
Healdsburg,
CA
3 stalks
lemongrass
A few Kaffir
lime leaves
2 cups sugar
2 cups water
Cut the
whitish parts of the lemongrass stalks into thin rings. Discard remainder.
Combine all ingredients, bring to a boil and simmer for about 15 minutes. Let
cool. Do not remove lemongrass. Store in a glass container.
Green Tea Simple Syrup
Specialty of
Savoy Restaurant
Ashville, NC
1/2 cup water
2 bags green tea
2 tbsp. honey
Boil the
water and steep the tea bags for 5-10 minutes. Stir in the honey until
dissolved. Refrigerate in a glass container.
Lemon/Mint Simple Syrup
Specialty of
Brasserie Jo
Chicago, IL
4 cups water
4 cups sugar
6 lemons, sliced
Zest of 3 lemons
1 1/2 oz. fresh
mint
Bring to a
boil and simmer until reduced by one quarter. Cool and strain. Store in a
sealed glass container.
Leave a comment