The War For Independence Redux

            The question was fresh in my mind when I went to the London Bar Show earlier this month. While in the city I visited a handful of high profile venues internationally renown for their cocktails and quality bartending. The places included Lonsdale Restaurant, The Savoy, Gordon Ramsey's new restaurant, Maze, the Martini bar at The Dukes Hotel, a fabulous Tiki bar in Notting Hill, Trailer Happiness, and a groovy subterranean bar in the West End named Milk and Honey.

            Perhaps more important than where I went in London is with whom I made these late night excursions. The group consisted of an amazing bunch of bartenders and journalists, all of who make their livelihood on the cutting edge of New York mixology. Over the course of the four-day trip, I found myself consciously observing the interplay between Manhattan's best and brightest and many of London's finest mixologists. The experience now affords me the opportunity to answer the question based on first hand observations.

            First, my compliments and felicitations to the brilliant Simon Ford, our British host and the man from Absolut Spirits Company who made this social science study possible. In addition to his considerable knowledge and expertise regarding all things potable, Simon's popularity quotient secured us entry into places typically inaccessible to those without local celebrity status.

            The American contingent was comprised of Toby Cecchini, author, master mixologist and NYC bar owner, Jim Meehan, author and master mixologist at the Pegu Club and Gramercy in NYC, Naren Young, journalist and bartender at Pegu Club and Noah Rothbaum, a Manhattan-based spirits writer and author.

            First for the advantages I credit to the London bar scene. Uppermost in significance is that with few exceptions, London bars are better staffed than their American counterparts. Our industry standard of scheduling one bartender per every 30,000 guests only contributes to the general erosion of hospitality here. London bars operate with more hands on deck. Point UK.

            London back bars bring to market a deeper, more tantalizing assortment of cordials and liqueurs, many of which are European brands not available in the States. This expanded palette of flavors gives London mixologists an advantage when concocting cocktails. Point UK.

            In addition, there is a broader reliance on using fresh ingredients behind their bars. Handmade sour mixes, purees and fresh juices are becoming the norm, where here it's at best a fifty-fifty proposition. Point UK.

            Finally, the Brits deserve a point for making everything they say sound so cool and sophisticated. Point UK.

            There are two scoring categories that I judge as draws. London bartenders are equally passionate about their craft as are the Americans. Also true, the percentage of bartenders who don't care a whit about the degree of their professionalism is also  precisely the same.

            The creative ingenuity being demonstrated behind the bars in London mirrors that of New York. Regardless of which side of the Atlantic you're talking about, today's cutting edge cocktails are balanced, distinctively delicious and engaging to look at. They're masterfully concocted, high quality drinks.

            As for the categories in which American bars have the edge, the first is that our back bars sport decidedly deeper selections of spirits. Perhaps it's our cultural need for choices, but in any case, spirit enthusiasts and mixologists a like benefit. Point U.S. Another point is awarded because of our penchant for featuring indigenous spirits. Artisan brands such as Hangar One, Domaine Charbay, Germaine-Robin, Anchor Distilling and Bendistillery are now well-represented on American top shelves. Point U.S.

            Finally, I'm deducting two points from the British score. The first deduction is a technicality involving diction. Many of us on this tour had difficulties understanding what the Londoners were saying. Much of what they said sounded familiar, but not really discernible. Bad form. The second demerit stems from the War of 1812. Nasty business really.

            And thus, it appears as if the score is two points each. But wait, there's more.

            The best Martini I've ever had the pleasure of knowing was served to me at The Dukes Hotel. It was made tableside using icy cold Plymouth Gin, a fine mist of French vermouth and an ample lemon twist. The cocktail was absolute heaven and perfection cannot be improved upon. Point UK.

            There you have it, by the narrowest of margins, London earns my nod as the Cocktail Capital of World. Buck up, there's always next year.