I
learned, or more accurately re-learned an important lesson as the co-host of
and judge at the recently concluded 2nd annual International Cane
Spirits Festival held in Ybor City, Florida. Over the two-day event, we
evaluated and rated nearly 80 premium rums, rhums and cachaças in the
competitive blind tasting.
I
have been a judge at numerous tasting competitions, and I'm always impressed at
how unwittingly biased we are by product packaging. It's the "don't judge a
book by its cover" thing. I think the underlying logic behind our bias--if
indeed there can be any logic to prejudging something--is that if a producer
devotes inordinate attention to a package aesthetics, then surely they must
have paid equal attention to making a great product. Hmm, I can think of scores
of examples, however, where that is absolutely false, where the package looks
far better than the product inside.
Okay,
I get it, caveat emptor
and all. But what about the opposite situation? What about products packaged in
clear bottles with plain looking labels? Doesn't the lack of any perceptible
design elements suggest the contents will be equally unimpressive?
At
the rum competition I again was forced to deal with my own prejudices. For
example, the spirit judged in the competition as the "Best Dark Rum" was One Barrel from Belize. This sumptuous
spirit couldn't look plainer on the shelf. In fact, I'm embarrassed to say,
that when a sample of One Barrel first arrived in our offices more than a year
ago, I dismissed it as something uninteresting and low budget. I didn't review
it, or mention the brand in subsequent rum-related articles. What even happened
to the sample I have no idea. Bad Robert!
Another
brand I disregarded as unworthy of professional scrutiny or coverage in the
trade magazines also walked away with two top honors. The brand is Tortuga Gold Rum from the the British
West Indies. Again, when I first laid hands on the brand I couldn't have been
less impressed. It had the look of a generic product. If they didn't care about
how the rum would be perceived, then why should I?
Well,
my mistake. The Tortuga 5-Year-Old was deemed the "Best Aged Rum (up to 8
Years)"and the Tortuga 12-Year-Old was awarded the title of "Best Aged Rum (9
to 8 Years)." In each case I was so wowed that I nearly sold my soul to find
out what they were immediately after the judging. Man, oh man, they're
tremendous. Again, bad Robert for being so prejudicial.
So
what to do? This is America where looks count. As long as most of the world's
spirit producers have embraced the notion that a great looking package is
essential, we will continue to load our back bars and retail shelves with
fabulously attractive products. Is there room then for stellar products wrapped
in unattractive, pedestrian looking bottles?
Heck
yeah! Spirits aficionados thrive on the process of discovery. When you turn
someone on to a fascinating and thoroughly enjoyable spirit and it happens to
come in undistinguished package, you will appear all that much more savvy for
having discovered the brand yourself.
So
tear into those lesser-known brands in those innocuous looking bottles. There
are some serious winners out there waiting to be discovered. They'll make you
proud.
And
to the good folks at Tortuga Rum and One Barrel, um, sorry about that.
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