Does Gin Still Have A Pulse?

            My optimism over gin's long-term viability and strength in the marketplace is based solely on anecdotal evidence, largely because the depletion statistics for the last several years paint an entirely different picture.

            The fact is that the gin category is experiencing a downturn. It's the only spirit category to have posted declines in super-premium sales in 2005. Truth be told, case depletions of gin have been losing ground in the market for several years.

            With all due deference to vodka's longstanding market dominance, drinking patterns in this country will inevitably shift. Vodka accounts for 26% of all distilled spirits sold in the United States and the category continues to grow at about 6% per year. But all empires eventually return to Earth. So will the vodka franchise.

            The question being bandied about is this, which light spirit will be the largest beneficiary of ex-vodka aficionados searching for a different, light spirit experience. Potential converts are being created almost nightly, as lapsed vodka drinkers grow disenchanted with the spirit's austere, aloof personality. The marketing blitzes and conflicting quality claims associated the torrential release of new vodkas brands alone is a major turnoff for consumers and retailers alike. Signs of the exodus are not imagined.

            Certainly the romantic appeal of rum and the outlaw image of tequila are going to attract the most new converts. The categories are well positioned for growth with high-quality products at every plausible price point, certainly enough to keep consumers on the path of discovery for quite some time.

            Those in the gin camp, however, contend that it's once again time for their import to shine. Shiver me timbers, I think I agree.

            My epiphany came at the end of this year's San Francisco World Spirits Competition during the judging of the light liquor best of show. With the world's finest light spirits lined side-by-side in front of us, we rightfully bestowed the honor to Plymouth Dry Gin. It's absolutely glorious. The gin has a wafting, alluring bouquet and a fresh, flavorful palate rich in diversity.

            Is it such a stretch to believe that gin's return to the limelight is just around the corner? The exact composition of each brand's proprietary recipe of aromatics and botanicals ensures that no two premium gins taste the same. Each is a singular commodity representing a certain house style. Gins also constitute a rarefied lot, with the fewest number of premium brands of all major spirits. For label-battered vodka drinkers, fewer choices might well be a welcome break. Lastly, gin is imminently mixable and a one of the founding fathers of the cocktail culture.

            Did I mention that we Americans swoon over British accents? Well, we do.