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The American Mixologist Online® Newsletter Vol. 17, No. 1 All Rights Reserved
Management
Elegant and sophisticated, cognac is arguably the noblest of brandies. With our society firmly entrenched in a return to pleasure and small indulgences, consumer interest in cognac has never been higher.
There are roughly 175 producers of cognac, each with widely differing styles. These cognac houses produce a variety of different grades of brandy, many of which eschew the accepted designations•e.g. VS, VSOP, XO•for more colorful and elaborate names. There are hundreds of labels of cognacs, no two sharing exactly the same characteristics.
The vast majority of cognacs are blends of aged brandies distilled from grapes grown in two or more of the six, contiguous growing districts of the cognac region, called crus. The most highly prized of these crus, valued for its gray-brown, chalky-lime soil, is the Grande Champagne. Nearly 18% of all cognac is produced in this region. Brandies from Grande Champagne are typically the most expensive because of their rich, full bouquets and multi-faceted character.
The next cru in stature is Petite Champagne, from which approximately 20% of all cognac is produced. The soil in this region is lighter in color and contains a lower concentration of chalk. Petite Champagne brandies lack the intensity of those from the Grande Champagne region. When a cognac blend contains brandies from both regions, with more than half originating in Grande Champagne, the cognac is labeled as a Fine Champagne cognac.
The smallest of the crus is the Borderies. Its brandies are soft, round and highly valued for use in blending. The Fin Bois region surrounds the aforementioned regions. Nearly 40% of all brandies produced in the cognac district come from Fin Bois, and they too are prized for their ability to add fullness and dimension to the finished blend. The Bons Bois and Bois Communs produce brandies principally used in blending.
Cognac labels bear no age statements. Typically, however, brandies carrying a VS designation have been aged between 4 and 7 years. VSOP cognacs are usually aged for 5 to 13 years, while XO, Extra, Napoleon, Vielle Reserve or Hors d'Age cognacs range in age from 7 to 40 years. These enormous age spreads account for much of the tremendous individuality and distinctions between cognac houses.
Cognac Enters the Singles Market
Cognac producers are releasing sets of unblended brandies from single districts, or single distilleries, each being a stellar example of the finest brandy the individual cognac-appellation or distillery has to offer.
The renowned cognac house of A. Hardy was the first to market their brandies from individual districts. The cognacs are distilled from unfiltered, low-proof wines, distilled slowly in small alembic stills. The result are brandies, bottled at their optimum ages, possessing a nearly flawless balance, alluring intensity and a richness that will please even the most discriminating palate.
The firm of Gabriel & Andreu has released a remarkable set of four, handcrafted single district cognacs ranging in age from the quickly maturing Fins Bois at 8 years to the 35-year-old Grande Champagne cognac. Cognac Louis Royer also recently introduced a collection of five magnificent brandies, each from one of the individual appellations within the Cognac Delimited Area of Production.
Hennessy has debuted three outstanding single distillery cognacs. Each reflecting the individual style and elegance of its namesake distillery. Hennessy Izambard is a vivacious brandy with a lively, fruity palate and a light, unhurried finish. Hennessy Le Peu is an attractive, personable cognac with a lavish bouquet and round, mouthwatering flavors. The third entry is Hennessy Camp Romain. This is a solid muscular brandy, a straight shooter with a lusty bouquet, a fruity, oaky palate and a long, enthusiastic finish.
New to the United States is CHÂTEAU DE LIGNÈRES cognac, a rare, single estate brandy made by the famed cognac House of Bisquit. The brandy is distilled from grapes grown at the estate and aged a minimum of 10 years in Limousin oak barrels made by the Bisquit's coopers. Founded in 1875, the Château de Lignères is located in the heart of the Fin Bois region of Cognac.
Similar in many respects to a single malt Scotch, the single estate brandy is made in a vertical process, this ensures an added degree of craftsmanship and devotion to quality. Both attributes are evident in this fascinating brandy, which has a floral and fruity bouquet and a dry, broad palate.
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