The American Mixologist Online® Newsletter Vol. 16, No. 9 All Rights Reserved
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Añejo rums are surging in popularity. Smooth and luxurious, aged rums have more in common with a cognac or sherry than they do with their unaged counterparts. They are elegant, sophisticated spirits best appreciated in a brandy snifter.

"Not everyone can jaunt off to the Caribbean, but sipping a fine old rum may be the next best thing," says Tom Valdes, president of Cruzan Rum, Ltd. "There is a cachet surrounding rum. They are made in exotic places, and imbued with rich aromas and captivating flavors. And that’s exactly how they should be marketed—as a romantic adventure in a glass."

"We’re seeing a change in drinking patterns in our hotels outlets nationwide. Sipping añejo rums has clicked in a big way," observes Al Ferrone, director of food and beverage for Hilton Hotels. "There has been in an influx of absolutely intriguing rums in the past year or so. They’re packaged beautifully, inviting people to drink them straight. Connoisseur consumerism has definitely found a new preoccupation."
One marketing advantage aged rums enjoy over other spirits, such as brandy or single malt scotch, is that it is relatively inexpensive. Appleton Estate Extra, which is aged in wood for twelve years, wholesales for about $20 per 750ml. Compared to most twelve-year-old spirits, that’s a considerable bargain.

Añejo Rum Take Center Stage
"Rum is the number two spirit in the world, but it’s closing in on number one in the minds of consumers," suggests Luis Ayala, rum consultant and the publisher of the Got Rum? newsletter. "Aged rums in snifters are a common sight now in bars and restaurants. That’s when you know the category has ascended to the next level. People are enjoying premium rums straight—no mixers, no ice. The category has come of age."

One key to prospering in this megatrend is appreciating how añejo rum is made and what makes it such a noble spirit.

In the simplest terms, rum is distilled from fresh sugar cane juice, or molasses. When the harvested sugar cane stalks are crushed and ground the process expresses a sweet, green-colored sap rich in sucrose. This sap is referred to as fresh sugar cane juice. Most of the rums produced on the French islands are distilled from fresh sugar cane juice and called Rhum Agricole.

There are also rums distilled from sugar cane syrup, which is derived from boiling and clarifying the cane juice. The majority of rums are distilled, however, from molasses, which is the final by-product in the production of crystallized sugar. Molasses is a thick, sticky, slightly bitter black liquid obtained after the third boiling of the cane juice. Even after being boiled three times, it still contains a significant amount of uncrystallized sugar, along with other organic compounds that greatly contribute to the bouquet and flavor of the finished distilled spirit.

"One of the great determining factors in a finished rum is the soil of the region in which the sugar cane is cultivated," states Richard Arregui, importer of Grand Havana Rum. "Sugar cane grown in Cuba will produce a different tasting rum than that grown in Barbados."

The distillation process requires that the molasses be allowed to ferment, or in other words, to create an alcoholic liquid. This warm, sweet liquid — called "wash" — is comprised of molasses, water and yeast. The active yeast converts the sugar in the molasses into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The quality and taste of the water has a significant impact on the character of the finished rum. The same is true for the specific strain of yeast used to start fermentation.

To create a dark, full-flavored rum, a portion of a previous distillation is added to the fermenting wash. This residue — known as "dunder" — contributes greatly to the finished rum’s bouquet and flavor. Distilling rum is essentially the process of boiling the wash such that the alcohol in the liquid evaporates and is collected as condensate. Alcohol has a lower boiling point than water (78.5ÓC versus 100ÓC), so it will be the first liquid in the wash to evaporate.

One of the primary types of stills used to distill rum is the traditional alembic, or pot still. While their size and volume vary, all alembic stills function in the same manner. It is comprised of a kettle-shaped vessel in which the wash is heat. As the alcohol vapor rises it is funneled into the neck and collected in the condenser coils. The condensate is then pumped into a second alembic still to be redistilled, concentrating the flavors and further purifying the spirit.

Rum takes well to aging in wood. Take a fiery spirit straight from the still and age it in wood for a decade and magical things happen. Over time, the rum begins to soften and mellow. Rum gathers its color from aging in wood. Barrel aging affects every dimension of the finished rum. Rums produced in pot stills are invariably aged in wood. This allows its constituent elements to marry, while the wood works to smooth out any rough edges.

While length of aging is a principle point of distinction, the type of wood in which a rum is aged is significant. Rum is often aged in used bourbon barrels, however, a wide variety of different wood type casks are used to age Caribbean rum. Both the type of wood, as well as what was in the cask previously, play a role in creating the finished rum.

The last of the aging variables are the specific conditions under which the rum is aged. Temperature and humidity are the two primary factors. Certainly resting in an open-air warehouse in Barbados is very different than being aged in the Scottish Highlands or along the Irish coast.

Mixing With Añejos
Viewing añejo rums as narrow use products would be to do them a tremendous disservice. They are vivacious spirits with full, satiny bodies and wafting bouquets. Their brilliant range of flavors make them outstanding performers behind the bar.

With consumers craving increasingly more flavor in their cocktails, aged rums are an operator’s panacea. Growing numbers of establishment’s are making these dark rums a staple of their beverage programs. An outstanding example is Cuba Libre Restaurant and Bar in Philadelphia and the newly refurbished Tropicana Hotel and Casino in Atlantic City. Their back bars sport nearly 70 different rums, eighteen of which are añejos.

Cuba Libre’s drink menu abounds with Cuban-inspired specialty drinks, such as the Cubano (dark rum, fresh lime and pineapple juice) and Caballito, a Latin variation of the Manhattan made with dark rum, fresh sugar cane juice, mint, and sweet vermouth.

"We also offer specialty drinks that feature different rums with Cuban coffee and steamed coconut milk," says beverage director Peter Rossi. "People enjoy experiencing new and sensational drinks and our specialties are just that."

Cuba Libre has also built a loyal following of añejo rum devotees. "We promote our aged rums the same way that some restaurants market their desserts," states Rossi. "For example, we promote Cruzan Rum Cream, Ron Matusalem, Sea Wynde, Pyrat X.O. Reserve and Zaya right on our menu. Many of our guestsappreciate ending a great meal with a snifter of marvelous añejo rum."

There are scores of creative ways to utilize these aged marvels in mixed drinks. They marry beautifully with ice cream, coffee, hot chocolate and almost every type of juice imaginable. Aged rum is also popularly featured in Margaritas and Kamikazes. Other innovative uses include:

• Cuban Standards — An inspired use of añejo rum is substituting it for light rum in Mojitos and classically prepared Daiquiris. Both cocktails are enhanced by the enriched flavors of the dark rum. Consider also featuring dark rums in a frozen strawberry, banana or raspberry Daiquiri. They add a delightful, caramel essence to the drink.
  
  
• Floats — Aged rums are also ideal for drizzling on top of blended specialties. They add a great flavor and greatly enhance the drink’s presentation. Floats are especially effective on light-colored, light-flavored drinks, such as Piña Coladas and adult milkshakes.
  
  
• Contemporary Cocktails — Dark rum cocktails are experiencing a popular resurgence. They’re sophisticated, elegant and excel at showcasing the rum. An excellent example is the Havana Sidecar, which is built similarly to a conventional Sidecar with the obvious substitution of aged rum for the brandy. The Larchmont is also worth sampling. It’s made with añejo rum, Grand Marnier and lime juice.
  
  The Martini is an ideal vehicle for promoting aged rums. The Pyrat Martini, made with Pyrat X.O. Reserve and a healthy splash of Godiva Chocolate Liqueur, while the Havana Club Martini features Bacardi 8 Reserva and a dose of tawny port.
  

Selecting an Añejo Line-Up
Choosing which rums to stock is similar to creating a short varietal wine menu. Like wine, rum is made in many different styles, each possessing singular qualities and characteristics. The goal is to develop a selection that will intrigue your clientele and adequately cover the spectrum of possibilities. In addition to the well-known, highly visible brands, you should also consider carrying several rums that might not have the same label recognition as the popular giants. So what are people sipping today? Here’s a short list.

• Appleton Estate — Made in Jamaica, Appleton Estate V/X rum is aged in wood for five years, while elegant Appleton Estate Extra is aged in oak for twelve years.
  
  
• Bacardi Eight — Crafted using the original recipe and aging process created by Don Facundo Bacardi in 1862, Bacardi 8 is aged eight years in small, hand-selected oak casks.
  
  
• Cruzan Estate Single-Barrel Rum — The only single-barrel rum on the market, Cruzan Estate Rum is triple-distilled in St. Croix, Virgin Islands and aged—up to 12 years—in American oak barrels prior to bottling. The final aspect of aging involves a heavily charred, 55-gallon oak cask.
  
  
• Doorley’s X.O. — Made on Barbados, this blend of barrel-aged spirits that undergo a second maturation in Spanish oak Oloroso sherry casks.
  
  
• Grand Havana Rum — A traditional añejo made on Grenada from sugar cane that originated on Cuba and matured in 40-gallon Spanish sherry casks.
  
  
• Kaniche Rum — Made on the French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe, they are made from freshly harvested, pure sugar cane juice and distilled in copper alembic stills.
  
  
• Mount Gay Extra Old Rum — True to its name, Extra Old Rum is a blend comprised of some of the oldest and most prized rums in the Mount Gay reserves.
  
  
• Pampero Aniversario — Distilled in Venezuela, this special reserve is a blend of 6- to 8-year old rums. It has a remarkably deep amber-red color that is a sight to behold.
  
  
• Pyrat XO Reserve — Made in Anguilla, full-bodied Pyrat XO Reserve is a blend of barrel-aged rums distilled in the British West Indies.
  
  
• Rhum Barbancourt Estate Réserve —Crafted in Haiti similarly to cognac, Rhum Barbancourt Estate Réserve is double-distilled from sugar cane and aged in small white oak casks for 15 years.
  
  
• Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva — Having originated in Santiago, Cuba, Gran Reserva is Solera aged approximately 15 years and comprised of rums between 8- and 32-years old.
  
  
• Sea Wynde — Made in the traditional British naval style, Sea Wynde is a blend of five, pure pot still rums from Jamaica and Guyana aged between 5-11 years.
  
  
• Zaya Gran Reserva — This Guatemalan añejo is double-distilled in copper pot stills and aged in oak barrels for 12 years.
  

Mastering Rum Speak
The majority of rums are created by marrying different rums together of various ages and distillation methods. The objective of blending is to combine a number of different rums to create a spirit that best showcase the outstanding qualities of the constituent elements. It’s a classic case of something becoming more than the sum of its parts.

Nearly all rums fall into one of two major categories—heavy and light. Heavy rums are typically distilled in alembic stills. Heavy is an unfortunate label for these highly flavorful spirits, one that implies that these rums are dense and chewy. While more substantial than their lighter counterparts, heavy rums are called that because they are loaded with flavoring agents (congeners). They are aromatic, full-bodied, full-flavored spirits with long lasting finishes. Heavy rums are typically aged in wood.

Light rums are usually distilled in column or continuous stills. They have light bodies and crisp, clean palates. Light rums are distilled to high proof rendering them extremely pure. They are occasionally aged for brief periods to round out their character. Light rums are unsurpassed for their mixability.

Regardless of the type of still used, distilled spirits exit the still absolutely crystal clear. So if all rums are distilled from sugar cane in some form, what distinguishes one rum from another? Here’s a brief guide to help tell the players apart.

• White Rum (Light, Silver Rum) — These are dry, clear and light-bodied rums. The majority of rum distillers have at least one of these spirits in their repertoire. White rums are typically blended and left unaged.
  
  
• Gold Rum (Oro, Ambré Rum) — These rums are typically medium-bodied and slightly more flavorful than the white version as a result of being barrel aged. Most derive their golden color during aging; however, many contain a touch of caramel coloring to enhance their presentation.
  
  
• Dark Rum — These aromatic rums are most often distilled in alembic stills and barrel aged for extended periods of time. Dark rums are invariably full-bodied, full-flavored with long, lingering finishes.
  
  
• Añejo Rum (Aged, Rhum Vieux) — Take a fiery spirit straight from the still and age it in wood for a decade and magical things happen. Over time, the rum will begin to soften and become mellow and permit the constituent elements in the rum to marry. Rum also gathers its color from aging in wood. The peak age for rum is somewhere between 15 to 25 years, after which it begins to decline. Rhum Vieux are aged a minimum of three years in oak. Rhum Trés Vieux are barrel aged a minimum of ten years.
  
  The specific conditions under which rum is aged is also a variable. Temperature and humidity are the two primary factors. Aging in an open-air warehouse in Barbados, for example, is very different than being matured in the Scottish Highlands or along the Irish Coast.
  
  
• Overproof Rum — These spirits are most frequently white rums bottled at an extremely high alcohol content. Technically overproof spirits are those bottled at more than 50% alcohol by volume, however, most overproof rums are bottled in the range of 150-151 proof.
  

Rum Takes Center Stage At Cuba Libre
Pete Rossi is a bartender’s bartender. With a dozen years of hands-on experience to his credit, Rossi several years ago became the beverage director for up-and-coming Cuba Libre Restaurants of Philadelphia. Like most Americans, his indoctrination to rum was an eye opening experience.

"The only rums that I was familiar with when I got this position were the major brands you find on almost any back bar," admits Rossi. "I really didn’t have an appreciation about how sophisticated and amazingly diverse the rum category is. Being a malt and cognac guy, I was frankly shocked at how elegant añejo rums are. I’m a believer now."

More than just a believer, Rossi figuratively immersed himself in the subject. "The more I read about the various types of rums the more interesting it all became. Now I think many of these aged rums rank among the finest spirits made." As evidence Rossi cited Pampero Aniversario, Montecristo from Guatemala and Pyrat XO Reserve.

Rossi’s growing passion for fine aged rums has enthused his service staff, most of whom came to the job with scant knowledge of rum. "We’ve worked on instilling our people with an understanding of what these fabulous spirits are and what distinguishes one from another. They have become highly effective ambassadors of rum. Naturally, they each tend to sell the brands that they like the best."

The newest Cuba Libre Restaurant is opening in the recently renovated Tropicana Hotel and Casino in Atlantic City. Guests will be faced with a back bar stocked with over 80 different expressions of rum, nearly 20 of which are Caribbean añejos. "We have the most prestigious rums in the world here," says Rossi. Cuba Libre’s upper echelon offerings include Cruzan Estate Single Barrel, Mount Gay Extra Old, Sea Wynde and Barbancourt Estate Reserve.

When asked how he markets the restaurant’s repertoire of añejo rums, Rossi replied that to date he has had exceptional success advising his guests to sample them neat or with a scant amount of ice.
"I like people to experience aged rum in its natural state and taste all of its robust flavors," says Rossi. "It’s a pleasure to watch their expressions change from one of skepticism to genuine pleasure. I think añejo rums drink as smooth and luxurious as many of the great cognacs that I’ve tasted."

When asked if he was thinking about featuring aged rums in specialty drinks, he thought for a moment and then shook off the notion. "We’re having such success promoting Cruzan’s flavored rums in our signature drinks that I hesitate to tamper with success."

Cuba Libre Restaurants do market their topshelf flight of rums on all of their various menus, including the dessert menu. "Añejo rums are a perfect way to cap off a great evening and I’m seeing increasingly more guests savoring a snifter of rum with their dessert. That’s how I know rum has finally arrived."

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