The American Mixologist Online® Newsletter Vol. 15, No. 29 All Rights Reserved
Drinks

Bourbons are on fire here and abroad. Master distillers from Kentucky are releasing the epitome of their crafts. They’ve cracked open hand-selected barrels and bottled their best. As it turns out, their best is world class.

The chant "Buy American" can now be heard in bars around the globe. It’s vivacious, satiny character and assertive bouquet are universally appealing, yet bourbons by nature are understated, preferring rather to saunter through life without pretense or conceit. Even as it ascends toward stardom, bourbon remains accessible to all palates and priced for all budgets.

This bourbon bonanza has also sparked the revival of the most classic of bourbon cocktails, the Manhattan. Unlike the martini, which is more of an acquired taste, the Manhattan has a nearly universal appeal, one that doesn’t require an air of sophistication to appreciate. Its growing popularity offers beverage operators the ideal vehicle for promoting top-shelf bourbons.

There are numerous reasons for operators to promote top-shelf Manhattans, not the least of which is their increased gross profit. While often costing twice as much as their counterparts made with well bourbon, Manhattans made with top-shelf brands typically yield twice the amount of profit. Also, because of the rapid expansion of the category, most operators are carrying two to three times as many premium brands of bourbon as they did even five years ago. Increasing the turnover rate of these products is financially advantageous.

One of the objectives when devising a signature Manhattan is to present a specific bourbon in a creative vehicle that best enhances its characteristics. For example, the Italian Manhattan does a superb job showcasing the supremely popular Maker’s Mark Bourbon. This small batch whiskey is highly aromatic with a full supple body, an ideal candidate for use in a gourmet Manhattan. The recipe substitutes Disaronno Amaretto and several dashes of cherry juice for the sweet vermouth. The nutty almond flavor of the amaretto highlights the smoky, caramel flavors in the whiskey.

As a collective, Jim Beam’s high-profile small batch bourbons—Booker’s, Knob Creek, Basil Hayden and Baker’s—are most frequently savored neat or with a splash of spring water. The flagship of the collection, Booker’s, is a huge bourbon brimming with flavor, making it ideal to promote in an Manhattan. Its full, robust flavor is ideally suited for the Satin Manhattan, a chic cocktail made with sweet vermouth, Grand Marnier and bourbon. Baker’s is rich, smooth and full of fruity and smoky nuances, similar in many respects to a well-aged alembic brandy. It is tailor made for promoting in the Blue Grass Blues Manhattan, a savory blend of dry vermouth, Blue Curaçao, bitters and bourbon.

The highly caramelized Knob Creek is fabulous as the featured performer in the New Orleans Manhattan. It’s made by coating the inside of a cocktail glass with Frangelico and discarding any excess. The bourbon is then paired with sweet vermouth. The hazelnut-flavored Frangelico does a beautiful job bringing out the caramel and fruit highlights in the Knob Creek.

More Creative Options
One way to creatively tweak the Manhattan is to substitute another type of aperitif wine for the vermouth. Perhaps the best known is the Dubonnet Manhattan, which is prepared with rouge Dubonnet, bourbon and a dash of bitters. While there are any number of whiskies that work well in this cocktail, Blanton’s Single Barrel Bourbon might well be at the top of the list. The tart, fruity character of the Dubonnet marries beautifully with the personality of the six- to eight-year old Blanton’s.

Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit is another single barrel bourbon that plays well in a gourmet Manhattan. It is a luxurious whiskey, loaded with lush flavors, including vanilla, raspberries and walnuts. The bourbon is outstanding in the Spanish Manhattan, an elegant cocktail made with dry sherry instead of vermouth. The nutty character of the sherry makes it perfectly cast in a supporting role.

Wild Turkey Rare Breed bourbon is undiluted, unfiltered and bottled at barrel-strength, which ranges from 109- to 122-proof. This immense whiskey is superb in a cocktail like the Port of Manhattan, a specialty made with tawny port and a splash of Chambord, both of which accentuate the whiskey’s woody, smoky character.

The Elijah Craig Single Barrel Bourbon is aged an extraordinary 18-years in wood, imbuing it with a deep, amber color, a vanilla-laced bouquet and a layers of tantalizing flavors, including toffee, vanilla and almonds. It’s so silky smooth that it could make a masterpiece out of curdled milk. Fortunately that won’t be necessary when there’s a specialty like the Lafayette Manhattan at hand. The cocktail features French vermouth, Lillet Rouge, bitters and bourbon.

While it’s true that few cocktails will transcend the popularity of the martini, it’s equally true that few cocktails will ever taste better than a Manhattan, especially one made with a top-shelf bourbon. The choice is yours—fame, or soul-satisfying bliss?

The recipes below are excerpted from the latest edition of "The Original Guide to American Cocktails and Drinks" by Robert Plotkin.

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